Paratha, pinni and jalebi
The Punjabi breakfast of stuffed paratha and white butter, and the winter and festival sweets of the halwai's shop.
A Punjabi morning begins with a paratha stuffed with potato, radish or cauliflower, cooked on the tava in ghee and eaten with white butter, curd and pickle, and a glass of lassi or tea.
In winter every house makes pinnis, balls of roasted wheat flour, ghee, jaggery and nuts, to keep out the cold. At fairs and festivals the halwai fries jalebis in coils of hot oil and soaks them in syrup, and carrots are slowly cooked in milk for gajrela.
More the table
The free kitchen where everyone sits on the floor in a line and eats the same food.
Mustard greens slow-cooked with butter and eaten with flatbread of maize: the taste of a Punjabi winter.
The warm sweet of flour, sugar and ghee given to everyone at the end of Sikh worship.
Nihari and paye for breakfast, halwa puri on Sundays, and the food streets of the old city by night.
Stuffed tandoor bread with chole, thick lassi in steel glasses, and fried fish: the dhaba food of Amritsar.
The clay oven sunk in the ground, and the shared village oven where women baked their rotis together.
A dish born of Partition: refugees from Peshawar reinventing tandoori chicken in Delhi.
Spiced chickpeas with puffed, deep-fried bread: the Sunday breakfast of Amritsar, Lahore and Delhi.
The comfort food of every Punjabi home: red kidney beans with rice, and yoghurt curry with fritters.
The famous sweet of Multan: a dense, brittle toffee of wheat, milk, sugar and ghee, studded with nuts.
The winter season when sugarcane is crushed and its juice boiled in great pans into golden gur.