
Phulkari and bagh
The 'flower work' of Punjabi women: geometric embroidery in golden and crimson silk, worked from the back of the cloth. A bagh, 'garden', covers the whole shawl; brides were given them at their weddings.
Phulkari, 'flower work', is the embroidery of Punjabi women: geometric patterns in silk floss, golden yellow, crimson, orange and white, worked in darning stitch from the back of a coarse cotton cloth, khaddar. When the whole cloth is covered, it is called a bagh, a garden.
Phulkaris were made by women for their daughters' weddings, often beginning at a girl's birth; a grandmother might start one for a granddaughter. The patterns could include wheat, birds, trains and scenes of village life.
After Partition the craft declined. It is now revived commercially in Patiala and is collected by museums around the world.
Gallery
8 works







Pictures from Wikimedia Commons; select one to see it full size with its credit.
More textiles & crafts

After 1819 Kashmir's shawl workshops worked for Lahore, and the Sikh court wore and gave shawls of great richness; some even show maps of Srinagar.

The turban, required of every Khalsa Sikh to cover the uncut hair, in styles from the Akali bunga to the pagh of the Doaba and the patka of children.

Square cloths for covering gifts, embroidered in the hills with scenes from the life of Krishna in the style of Pahari painting.

A carpet woven in the imperial workshops of Lahore for a London merchant, with his arms and those of his guild in the border.

The cobalt-and-white glazed pottery and tiles of Multan, the craft that clothed its Sufi tombs and is still practised in the city.

The carved furniture, doors and screens of Chiniot, whose carpenters are famous across Pakistan.

The painted and mirrored trucks of Pakistan, rolling galleries of birds, film stars, poetry and landscapes.

The flat leather slipper of the Punjab, embroidered in gold thread, with a curled toe for men and a closed back for women.

Sialkot's workshops have stitched a large share of the world's footballs, including balls used at World Cups.

The thatheras of Jandiala Guru beat brass and copper into pots, plates and the great kadahs of the langar by hand; their craft was placed on UNESCO's list of intangible heritage in 2014.
Hoshiarpur inlay work19th century – todayFurniture, boxes and doors of dark sheesham wood inlaid with fine floral patterns in ivory, bone and brass, the specialty of Hoshiarpur's craftsmen.
The camel-skin lamps of MultanLiving craftLampshades, vases and boxes of thinly scraped camel skin, moulded over clay and painted with gold and coloured designs, called naqashi, by the craftsmen of Multan.

The flat-woven cotton rugs and the checked cotton sheets of the Punjabi village, woven by women on home looms and counted out in dowries.
The parandaLiving craftThe tasselled braid of black or coloured silk woven into a woman's plait and finished with bright pompoms, worn at weddings, at Teeyan and for giddha.

The full, deeply pleated salwar named after the princely state of Patiala, now worn all over South Asia.

Patchwork quilts stitched by women of Sindh and the southern Punjab in bold geometric patterns, for dowries, beds and gifts.
In the world's museums
82 objects →
Phulkaric.1881-2 · Amritsar© Victoria and Albert Museum, London ↗
Phulkaric.1881-2 · Amritsar© Victoria and Albert Museum, London ↗
Phulkaric.1862 · Punjab (India)© Victoria and Albert Museum, London ↗
Phulkaric.1881-2 · Punjab (India)© Victoria and Albert Museum, London ↗
Phulkarica. 1855-1879 · Punjab (India)© Victoria and Albert Museum, London ↗
Shishedar Phulkarica. 1855-1879 · Punjab (India)© Victoria and Albert Museum, London ↗
Phulkaric.1881-2 · Bhera© Victoria and Albert Museum, London ↗
Phulkaric.1881-2 · Lahore© Victoria and Albert Museum, London ↗
Phulkaric.1881-2 · Lahore© Victoria and Albert Museum, London ↗
Phulkaric.1881-1882 · Amritsar© Victoria and Albert Museum, London ↗
Phulkaric.1881-1882 · Hazara© Victoria and Albert Museum, London ↗
Head Shawl (Phulkari)1800s · India, Punjab, 19th centuryCleveland Museum of Art ↗
Hanging (Phulkari work)c. 1875–1900 · India, Punjab, Late 19th centuryCleveland Museum of Art ↗
Head Shawl ("Phulkari")1800s · India, Punjab, 19th centuryCleveland Museum of Art ↗
Bridal shawl (phulkari) from Punjab, India, 20th century, khadi (hand-spunWikimedia Commons · Hiart ↗
Phulkari (bridal shawl), Punjab, early 20th century, cotton, silk and embroideryWikimedia Commons ↗
Phulkaric. 1925–1950 · Punjab · IndiaMinneapolis Institute of Art ↗
Wedding veil (Phulkari)first quarter of the 20th century · IndiaMinneapolis Institute of Art ↗