
Amritsar · Harmandir Sahib
Founded by Guru Ram Das around a sacred pool. Guru Arjan built the Harmandir Sahib in its centre, and Guru Hargobind raised the Akal Takht facing it, the first of the five Takhts.
Amritsar was founded by Guru Ram Das around 1577 on land around a pool among the trees of the Majha, and grew into the Sikhs' holy city and the commercial capital of the Punjab. The pool gave the city its name, Amrit-sar, the pool of nectar.
In its centre stands the Harmandir Sahib, built by Guru Arjan and completed in 1604, when the Adi Granth was installed there. It sits on a platform in the middle of the sarovar, reached by a causeway, with doors on all four sides, lower than the ground around it so that all who enter must step down. Destroyed by the Afghans in 1757 and 1762, it was rebuilt by the misls from 1764, and Ranjit Singh covered its upper storeys in gilded copper in the 1830s, which gave it its English name, the Golden Temple. Facing it stands the Akal Takht, the throne of the Timeless, built by Guru Hargobind in 1606, the seat of Sikh temporal authority.
The city grew around the temple in a ring of bazaars and katras, the forts of the misls and their bungas. In 1919 its Jallianwala Bagh saw the massacre that turned India against British rule. In June 1984 the Indian Army attacked the Harmandir Sahib complex, destroying the Akal Takht and the Sikh Reference Library, and killing thousands. Today the Darbar Sahib receives more visitors than the Taj Mahal, and its langar feeds up to a hundred thousand people a day.
People

Bank manager turned human rights investigator who found records of thousands of unidentified bodies secretly cremated by Punjab police. Abducted in 1995 and killed in custody.

Director General of Punjab Police who led Operation Black Thunder II and the counter-insurgency campaign of 1991–95. Credited by supporters with ending the insurgency and criticised by rights groups for its abuses.

Ninth Guru, 'Hind di Chadar', the shield of India. Founded Anandpur and was beheaded in Delhi in 1675 for defending the right of Kashmiri Pandits to keep their faith.

Sher-e-Punjab, the Lion of Punjab. United the misls into the Sikh Empire, ruled from Lahore for forty years and covered the Harmandir Sahib in gold.

Singer from a village near Amritsar who grew up in Lahore and became the voice of Hindi cinema.

The scripture of the Sikhs and their eternal, living Guru: 1,430 pages of hymns by six Gurus and some thirty other saints, set in 31 ragas.

Wrestler from a village near Amritsar who became a world champion of professional wrestling and then a film star.

Founder of the Afghan Durrani empire, who invaded Punjab eight or nine times between 1748 and 1767, crushed the Marathas at Panipat and twice destroyed the Harmandir Sahib.

Fifth Guru. Built the Harmandir Sahib, compiled the Adi Granth in 1604 and became the first Sikh martyr, tortured to death in Lahore in 1606.

Sixth Guru. Wore two swords, miri and piri, for worldly and spiritual authority, built the Akal Takht and fought the first Sikh battles against Mughal forces.

Scholar and warrior who led the Shaheed misl. In his seventies he marched to free the Harmandir Sahib after Afghan desecration and died near its precinct.

Fourth Guru and founder of Amritsar. Wrote the Lavan, the four marriage hymns of the Anand Karaj.

Left-arm spinner from Amritsar, one of the great Indian spin quartet and a captain of India.

Decorated Indian Army major general, dismissed shortly before retirement, who organised the defences of the Harmandir Sahib complex and was killed in Blue Star.

Student from Amritsar who shot Sir William Curzon Wyllie in London in 1909 and was hanged at Pentonville.

Father of modern Punjabi literature: poet, novelist and editor in the Singh Sabha movement, whose Rana Surat Singh is the first Punjabi epic in modern verse.

Disciple of Guru Nanak who lived to anoint five more Gurus and was the first granthi of the Harmandir Sahib.

Nihang leader and jathedar of the Akal Takht who once had Ranjit Singh flogged for a moral lapse. Killed leading the charge at Nowshera.

Leader of the Akali Dal for four decades, through the gurdwara reform movement, Partition and the campaign for a Punjabi-speaking state.

Scribe of the final Guru Granth Sahib at Damdama and later head granthi of the Harmandir Sahib, cut apart joint by joint in Lahore.

Founding president of the Ghadar Party in America in 1913. Sentenced to death after the failed rising, he spent sixteen years in prison.

Scribe of the Adi Granth and author of the Vaaran, which Guru Arjan called the key to understanding the Guru Granth Sahib.

Qadiri Sufi of Lahore and friend of Guru Arjan. Tradition holds he laid the foundation stone of the Harmandir Sahib.

A reformed bandit who became one of Guru Hargobind's boldest commanders, remembered for recovering two horses seized from the Guru's followers.

Lahore patron who founded The Tribune newspaper and was the first chairman of the Punjab National Bank, and left his fortune to a college and a library.

Founded Pingalwara in Amritsar, a home for the disabled and destitute, after carrying an abandoned disabled child on his back for years.

Built the Bhangi misl into the strongest of the confederacy, with lands from Lahore to Multan. The great Zamzama gun was captured by the Bhangis and long known as the Bhangian wali top.

Fourteenth head of the Damdami Taksal, who called a generation of Sikhs back to amrit and the Guru, led the Dharam Yudh Morcha and fell defending the Akal Takht on 6 June 1984.

The Akali leader who carried the Punjabi Suba campaign to victory in 1966, with fasts, mass arrests and a promise to burn himself alive.

First president of the SGPC, who led the 'Keys Affair' of 1921 forcing the British to return the keys of the Harmandir Sahib treasury.

A farmer of the village of Wan who sheltered Sikhs on the run; when Zakariya Khan's troops came for him in 1726 he and some two dozen companions fought them to the death.

Leader of the Ramgarhia misl, named after the Ram Rauni fort at Amritsar he rebuilt. Raided as far as Delhi in 1783.

Accepted a Mughal title in 1733 while fanning the horses of the sangat, then organised the Khalsa into the Budha Dal and Taruna Dal.

Head of the Kanhaiya misl and for a time the most powerful chief in Punjab. His daughter-in-law Sada Kaur arranged the marriage that allied the Kanhaiyas with Ranjit Singh.

President of the Akali Dal who led the Dharam Yudh Morcha and signed the 1985 accord with Rajiv Gandhi. Assassinated by militants weeks later.

Sikh veteran of the US Army whose citizenship case of 1923 led the Supreme Court to rule that Indians could not become Americans.

Farmer of California's Imperial Valley who in 1956 became the first Asian American elected to the US Congress.

Muslim minstrels at the Gurus' court whose Ramkali ki Var, a ballad on the unity of the Gurus, is in the Guru Granth Sahib.

Rode into Amritsar disguised as revenue officials in 1740 and beheaded Massa Ranghar, who was holding dances in the Harmandir Sahib.

Led thirty Sikhs out of the Akal Takht to face Ahmad Shah Abdali's army in December 1764 rather than leave the Harmandir Sahib undefended.

Sufi poet patronised by Ranjit Singh, best known for Sassi Punnu.

Wrestler of Amritsar and Lahore, undefeated in a career of more than fifty years and world champion in London in 1910.
Battles
Artifacts

The heavy double-edged sword said to have been wielded by Baba Deep Singh in 1757, kept at the Akal Takht and shown to the sangat.

The steel quoit thrown by the Akali Nihangs, worn in stacks on their towering turbans, the dastar bunga, along with small daggers and steel emblems.

Letters of command written by the later Gurus and their wives to Sikh congregations, asking for offerings, horses and weapons, many bearing the Guru's own hand.

The inner walls of the Harmandir Sahib are covered in painted flowers, vines and animals, with gilded gesso and mirror work, the work of Sikh artist families such as Bhai Kehar Singh and Bhai Gian Singh Naqqash.

The Sikhs' holiest shrine, set in the middle of the pool of nectar and reached by a causeway, with four doors open to every direction and every caste. Destroyed by Abdali and rebuilt, then gilded and inlaid with marble under Ranjit Singh.

The throne of the Timeless, raised by Guru Hargobind facing the Harmandir Sahib, seat of the Panth's temporal authority. Ruined by Abdali, rebuilt, shelled by the army in 1984 and rebuilt again by the Sikhs themselves.

Built by the Bhangi misl and rebuilt by Ranjit Singh to guard Amritsar and its treasury; later a British and then an Indian Army fort, now open to visitors.

Ranjit Singh's summer palace and garden in Amritsar, laid out like a Mughal garden and named after Guru Ram Das.

The museum inside the Golden Temple complex, with paintings of the Gurus and martyrs, portraits of the shaheeds of the 20th century, old weapons, coins and manuscripts.

A copy of the Adi Granth made by Bhai Banno, a Sikh of Mangat, who was sent to Lahore to have the Guru's scripture bound and copied it on the way.

After annexation, painters of Lahore and Amritsar such as Kehar Singh and Kapur Singh painted the people of the bazaar for British buyers: the potter, the dyer, the water-carrier, the Nihang and the fakir.

A nine-storey octagonal tower, long the tallest building in Amritsar, raised in memory of Guru Hargobind's son Atal Rai, who died at the age of nine.

The college founded by the Singh Sabha reformers, with a vast domed building designed by Bhai Ram Singh, which became a centre of Sikh learning and Punjabi letters.

The thatheras of Jandiala Guru beat brass and copper into pots, plates and the great kadahs of the langar by hand; their craft was placed on UNESCO's list of intangible heritage in 2014.
The parandaLiving craftThe tasselled braid of black or coloured silk woven into a woman's plait and finished with bright pompoms, worn at weddings, at Teeyan and for giddha.

A museum in Amritsar's old Town Hall that tells the story of 1947 through the voices, letters and belongings of the people who lived through it.

A canopy of gold and jewels that Ranjit Singh gave to be held over the Guru Granth Sahib, kept in the treasury of the Golden Temple.
On the timeline
The Harmandir Sahib complex
A planScroll sideways to see the whole figure →
The five Takhts
The seats of Sikh authority- 1Akal Takht Amritsar
Built by Guru Hargobind, 1606: the throne of the Timeless, seat of temporal authority
- 2Takht Sri Kesgarh Sahib Anandpur
Where Guru Gobind Singh created the Khalsa, 1699
- 3Takht Sri Damdama Sahib Talwandi Sabo
Where he completed the Guru Granth Sahib, 1706; a Takht since 1966
- 4Takht Sri Patna Sahib Patna
Birthplace of Guru Gobind Singh, 1666
- 5Takht Sri Hazur Sahib Nanded
Where he passed the Guruship to the Guru Granth Sahib and died, 1708
In the world's museums
180 objects →
Painting of Maharaja Ranjit Singh on horseback with attendant, Bazaar School, AmritsarWikimedia Commons ↗
Amritsar (The Lake by the Golden Temple)', oil on canvas painting by Charles W. BartlettWikimedia Commons · Charles William Bartlett ↗
Felice Beato (British, born Italy - The Golden Temple at Amritsar - Google Art ProjectWikimedia Commons · Felice Beato ↗
Sri Harimandir Sahib (Golden Temple), AmritsarWikimedia Commons ↗
Watercolour by a Company artist of the Golden Temple at Amritsar, 1865National Army Museum, London · photo Wikimedia Commons (Wikimedia Commons) ↗
The Golden Temple, Amritsar by William Carpenter, paintings, watercolour on paper, IndiaV&A, London · photo William Carpenter (Wikimedia Commons) ↗
Sikh priest (Granthi) reading the Grunth (Guru Granth Sahib), Umritsur (Amritsar)"British Library, London · photo William Simpson (Wikimedia Commons) ↗
A view of the Golden Temple at Amritsar, the principle shrine of the Sikh religion'British Library, London · photo Marianne North (Wikimedia Commons) ↗
Sketch of Sikh Ghorcharas of the Khalsa [Sikh Empire], by Fanny Eden, near AmritsarBritish Library, London · photo Fanny Eden (Wikimedia Commons) ↗
The Akalis Tower, Amritsar, Punjabprobably 02/1854 · Amritsar© Victoria and Albert Museum, London ↗
The Golden Temple at Amritsarprobably 02/1854 · Amritsar© Victoria and Albert Museum, London ↗
The Golden Temple at Amritsarca. 1870 · Lahore© Victoria and Albert Museum, London ↗
Seated holy man with figures, Amritsar, Punjab1864Wellcome Collection (via Europeana) · CC BY ↗
Fakirs at Amritsar, richest city of the Punjab1903-01-01 · indiaLibrary of Congress ↗
Fakirs at Amritsar, richest city of the Punjab1903-01-01 · indiaLibrary of Congress ↗
Seated holy man with figures, Amritsar, Punjab[1864]Wellcome Collection ↗
Golden Temple, AmritsarAmritsarWellcome Collection ↗
Golden Temple, AmritsarWellcome Collection ↗